normal Fuel and oil on drive rather than in engine :/ :D

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6 months 2 weeks ago #17778 by davesss
Most carb kits will have all the gaskets you need, but they also have a new float needle/seat.
Check the old ally washer under the needle/seat when you unscrew it, there are different thicknesses available and that's what sets the correct float height (to get the right fuel level in the bowl). From memory there can be 0.3mm thick, 0.5mm thick, 1mm thick, etc, put the same thickness out of the kit back in so the fuel doesn't leak out, the ally washers are a use-once-only thing.
You can pull out the float pin (carefully, the assembly is a bit delicate) and to stop the stickyness just get some 1000 emery and lightly polish it until it's shiny again (which means there is no gum or varnish from the fuel left on it), and that will fix that OK.
Throw the new gaskets in it, there are a few options in the kit so check the holes are in the right place, etc, and they are the right size, then button it up and off you go I rekn.
Job well done.

Old School Volksies

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6 months 2 weeks ago - 6 months 2 weeks ago #17781 by ugame
Thanks again Dave.

Just done some reading up on how carbs work (overdue lol)
www.explainthatstuff.com/how-carburetors-work.html

So from that I gather that if the pin was stuck DOWN (open), that would result in flooding.

Where as I was only seeing the pin get stuck (and I use that term loosely) in the UP (closed) position.

Not saying that wasn't the cause, as it's possible it was a freak stuck that has since cleared.

Given as shown in my little vid that there was some ability for the needle to get itself stuck closed, it stands to reason that perhaps it was also at some point stuck open.

Fact is, engine and tank were emptied of all fuel, through the sump, so it's the carby that is the most likely culprit from what I'm reading now.

EDIT: I guess another thing to bench test is, once rebuilt, is the top fuel valve actually closing when the needle is up/closed, or is something still allowing fuel to seep through. Perhaps the needle is meant to even go in further than I am seeing, and hence not fully closing off the fuel supply.

hmmmmm

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6 months 1 week ago #17787 by ugame
Just had to share this video I just found on the topic of cleaning up a carb


Main points:
Test float with FUEL and ensure it's still actually floating
How to clean the needle using metal polish, drill, and ear buds.

Reason I was looking this up (even though my needle is not the same as the one shown of course) is that after spraying the crap out of my needle, it's....i'd argue, now MORE sticky than before.

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6 months 1 week ago #17788 by ugame
Another useful resource for anyone playing along at home.

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6 months 1 week ago #17789 by vwjon
I recon metal polish would be too harsh on a carby seat, some very very fine wet n dry usually sorts out my needles, (stepped or burred)

Your "more sticky" float needle is likely cos its dry, fuel also acts as a lubricant, and the pressure behind it will help shut that valve.

POKE-DUBS, YOU GOTTA GET 'EM ALL!!
Tic Tak Tow, When ya gotta go!

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6 months 1 week ago #17796 by ugame
Cheers John.

I've checked float operation in the bowl with fuel and it's buoyant so that's all good.

As Dave said, a new kit should include a new needle anyway so if that's the case, I may just replace it to be sure.

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